People come to the Riviera for the sea. They often leave marked by the mountains. Behind the coastal strip, the Nice hinterland hides a dozen medieval villages perched on rocky outcrops, on valley slopes, clinging above the void. They are less than an hour from Nice, yet they seem to belong to another century.
Èze, the Eagle's Nest
It is the most famous, and it deserves its reputation. Èze Village coils around a rocky peak 429 metres above the Mediterranean. The cobbled lanes spiral up to the Exotic Garden, planted with cacti and succulents, where the view plunges over the whole bay. On a clear day, you can see Corsica. The Fragonard perfume house has a factory here that can be visited free of charge. To avoid the crowds, climb up before 10am or at the end of the day, when the light gilds the old stones.
Saint-Paul-de-Vence, the Painters' Village
Perched between Nice and Vence, Saint-Paul-de-Vence attracted Chagall, Picasso, Matisse and so many others. Chagall is buried here, in the small cemetery at the end of the village. The lanes overflow with art galleries and studios. At the village entrance, the Maeght Foundation is one of Europe's finest modern art museums, with its Giacometti sculptures and Miró labyrinth. Take time for a coffee at the Colombe d'Or, the inn where artists paid for their meals in paintings.
Gourdon, the Coast's Balcony
Listed among France's most beautiful villages, Gourdon overlooks the Gorges du Loup at 760 metres altitude. The view stretches over 80 kilometres of coast, from the mouth of the Var to the Esterel. The village is tiny, a few lanes, a castle, some craftspeople. You climb up as much for the panorama as for the silence.
The Secret Villages
Beyond the must-sees, the hinterland hides less-frequented treasures. Peillon and Peille, clinging in the Paillon valley, have remained almost intact since the Middle Ages, without souvenir shops. Sainte-Agnès, 800 metres above Menton, is the highest coastal village in Europe. Lucéram, in the Vésubie valley, is known for its Christmas nativity scenes that transform the entire village into a magical trail each winter.
How to Get There
The car remains the most practical way to link several villages in a day. Èze and Saint-Paul are accessible by bus from Nice with the regional Zou network for 2.10 euros per journey, but services are infrequent. For the more remote villages, car rental is essential. Bring good shoes, as all these villages are discovered on foot, in often steep and cobbled lanes.
