On Cours Saleya, set back from the market's effervescence, a sober facade hides what many visitors consider Nice's finest baroque religious interior — the Chapelle de la Miséricorde. Built in 1736 by Bernardo Vittone, pupil of Juvara (architect of the Basilica of Superga in Turin), this chapel is a masterpiece of baroque illusionism: its vertiginous trompe-l'œil ceilings create the impression of a dome open to the sky, its gilded stucco and polychrome marble flood the space with ornamental richness radically contrasting with the sobriety of its facade.
The chapel houses a Louis Bréa altarpiece (15th century) — one of the first Niçois primitive painters — and a collection of paintings and silverware among the Vieux-Nice's most precious.
The chapel is only open a restricted number of days — principally on Tuesday mornings during the Cours Saleya market (approximately 10am–12pm). A rarity making it all the more precious a discovery.
Free entry during opening hours.
Highlights: The Chapelle de la Miséricorde is described as 'Nice's greatest surprise' by many visitors — its sober facade absolutely doesn't prepare for the baroque interior's splendour. The ceiling trompe-l'œil is unanimously cited as spectacular. Free entry and interior calm make it a haven amid the market's effervescence.
Areas for improvement: Very restricted opening hours (principally Tuesday mornings) mean many visitors miss it. Advance information needed to avoid missing the opening.
Overall: Chapelle de la Miséricorde is Old Nice's hidden treasure — the city's finest baroque interior, free on Tuesday mornings, ignored by most tourist guides.
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