On Cours Saleya, set back from the market's effervescence, a sober facade hides what many visitors consider Nice's finest baroque religious interior, the Chapelle de la Miséricorde. Built in 1736 by Bernardo Vittone, pupil of Juvara (architect of the Basilica of Superga in Turin), this chapel is a masterpiece of baroque illusionism: its vertiginous trompe-l'œil ceilings create the impression of a dome open to the sky, its gilded stucco and polychrome marble flood the space with ornamental richness radically contrasting with the sobriety of its facade.
The chapel houses a Louis Bréa altarpiece (15th century), one of the first Niçois primitive painters, and a collection of paintings and silverware among the Vieux-Nice's most precious.
The chapel is only open a restricted number of days, principally on Tuesday mornings during the Cours Saleya market (approximately 10am-12pm). A rarity making it all the more precious a discovery.
Free entry during opening hours.
Highlights: The Chapelle de la Miséricorde is described as 'Nice's greatest surprise' by many visitors, its sober facade absolutely doesn't prepare for the baroque interior's splendour. The ceiling trompe-l'œil is unanimously cited as spectacular. Free entry and interior calm make it a haven amid the market's effervescence.
Areas for improvement: Very restricted opening hours (principally Tuesday mornings) mean many visitors miss it. Advance information needed to avoid missing the opening.
Overall impression: Chapelle de la Miséricorde is Old Nice's hidden treasure, the city's finest baroque interior, free on Tuesday mornings, ignored by most tourist guides.
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