Between Nice and Cannes, Antibes is often eclipsed by its more famous neighbours. That's a mistake. With its fortified old town, one of Europe's largest marinas, its Picasso museum and the seaside resort of Juan-les-Pins, Antibes condenses everything that makes the Riviera charming, without the sometimes excessive bustle of its neighbours.
The Old Town and Its Ramparts
The heart of Antibes is enclosed within ramparts running along the sea. Inside, a maze of cobbled lanes, small squares and facades with colourful shutters invites strolling. The Provençal market of cours Masséna, under its covered hall, is one of the most beautiful on the coast, overflowing with fruit, vegetables, flowers, cheeses and local specialities. Go in the morning for the atmosphere.
The Picasso Museum
Set in the Grimaldi castle, a former residence overlooking the sea, the Picasso museum occupies the very place where the artist worked in 1946. Picasso left part of his works there in thanks, and the museum today holds paintings, drawings and ceramics from this luminous period. The setting, facing the Mediterranean, adds to the magic of the visit.
The Cap d'Antibes
Between Antibes and Juan-les-Pins, the Cap d'Antibes is a lush peninsula dotted with sumptuous villas. The coastal path, or sentier de Tire-Poil, goes around it on foot, offering spectacular panoramas over the sea and wild coves to swim in. The walk is one of the most beautiful in the region, to do in calm weather.
Juan-les-Pins and Its Jazz
On the other side of the cape, Juan-les-Pins is a lively seaside resort with real sandy beaches, lined with umbrella pines. It is here that the famous Jazz à Juan festival is held each summer, one of Europe's oldest jazz festivals, which has hosted the greatest names since 1960. The summer atmosphere, between beaches, terraces and concerts, is unique.
How to Get There
The train from Nice takes about 25 minutes and serves Antibes and Juan-les-Pins directly. Departures are regular and the journey hugs the coast. Once there, the old town and port are discovered on foot. For the Cap d'Antibes, better to bring good shoes or a bike. Allow a day to fully enjoy the city, the market and a swim at Juan-les-Pins.