There is a town where the very air seems perfumed. In Grasse, perched in the hills 40 minutes from Nice, perfume is not a product, it is a story spanning several centuries. Cradle of French perfumery, the town gave birth to the greatest noses and continues to supply the essences of the world's greatest houses. Its craft is inscribed on UNESCO's intangible heritage list.
A History Born from Leather
Grasse's story begins unexpectedly, with leatherwork. In the 16th century, the town was renowned for its tanneries, but the smell of leather was unpleasant. Someone had the idea of perfuming gloves, launching a fashion at court. Gradually, perfume took precedence over leather, and the mild climate of the hills, ideal for growing flowers, did the rest. Jasmine, centifolia rose, tuberose and violet became the region's treasures.
The Great Houses to Visit
Three historic houses open their doors to the public, most of them free. Fragonard, Galimard and Molinard offer guided tours of their factories, where you discover extraction techniques, from distillation to enfleurage. You understand how tonnes of petals transform into a few precious millilitres of absolute. The shops let you leave with fragrances unavailable elsewhere.
Create Your Own Perfume
The most memorable experience is composing your own perfume. Several houses offer creation workshops where, guided by a perfumer, you assemble top, heart and base notes to create a unique fragrance. You leave with your personalised bottle and the formula, kept so you can reorder it. An original activity that appeals as much to couples as to groups.
The International Perfume Museum
To understand the history and science of perfume, the International Perfume Museum is essential. Its collections trace 4000 years of fragrance history, from antique bottles to contemporary creations. The museum garden, down in the plain, grows perfume flowers and can be visited in spring and summer, when the rows of roses and jasmine perfume the air.
When to Come
Grasse can be visited all year, but spring and early summer are magical, when the flower fields are in bloom. The centifolia rose harvest takes place in May, the jasmine harvest from late July to October. The town holds a Rose Expo in May and a jasmine festival in August. Allow a full day to enjoy the tours, the museum and the old town with its colourful lanes.
